Alexander McQueen's Python Armadillo Shoes Spring 2010
Earlier in the week my Youngest Daughter and I visited the Alexander McQueen "Savage Beauty" Exhibition at the V&A. My mind is still whirling with what we saw. I have never truly considered fashion as art but looking at McQueen's creations in their originality, their detail and vision was a Road to Tarsus moment. The videos of the Fashion Shows played out as street theatre. The impact was like a punch in the stomach. The overt sexual aggression, the sado masochism, the constant refrain of our dark underbelly and visceral desires was sometimes nauseating - but always compelling.
There was light and shade, but even in those designs which allude to things more "aerial "- the exquisite pale lilacs , pinks and aqua tones of the Japanese style kimonos or the fabulous, computer generated designs of sea creatures and reptiles, on futuristic tunic dresses, in his last collection-the threat of violence and destruction still whispers its insidious message. A beautiful dress, constructed of silk flowers, gorgeous in its abundance and excess, came with the footnote from McQueen that it was ultimately intended to illustrate inevitable decay.
You might be thinking, what has this got to do with Kitten Heels ? A fair question. I had chosen my blog topic before the visit and still believe it a valid subject. It just made me think how very great is the gap between our normal lives ,where, actually, as opposed to the Python Armadillo Shoes in McQueen's Spring 2010 Collection, kitten heels have a useful role. And, on a lesser scale, how a great deal of what we see and read in the Fashion Press (still a million miles from the genius of McQueen and his coterie) is of little application to who we actually are or the way we actually live !
I think that McQueen's ferocious beasts would tear our kitten limb from limb but that doesn't mean our kitten is worthless ! No Sir! We are not all Visionaries with a tortured soul, thankfully, or day to day life could not continue. I'm not suggesting that we don't aspire to live large, just that its not possible every day. And on those days, you can wear Kitten Heels!!!
Prompted by an article by Harriet Walker (Times May 19th 2015 "Kitten Heels are back..." ), I decided to google the subject. As I suspected, Kitten Heels have never really gone away. I only researched back as far as 2010 and even then their "return" was being heralded ! It seems that a few "brave " designers (who would have thought fashion design could be so perilous ?) -Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs -recently attempted to resurrect them, yet only now, it seems, are they worthy of the Fashion Editors who sit on the front row of the shows. SS15 has their endorsement and the much maligned kitten heel has appeared on the catwalks of Dior, Fendi and Louis Vuitton. The mid-height kitten heel (a cross with a larger Tom Cat perhaps ) was seen at Chanel and Celine. Do you really care? Do you really need confirmation that now a Fashion Editor has given you the thumbs up to wear what you have always known was a great choice of shoe ?? Thought not ! If you wavered, and I have-a herd animal, me- I wanted to give you your options.
Kitten was slang in the 1950s for a young and inexperienced girl. The diminutive heel was conceived as a trainer heel for these young girls, as an easier alternative to the higher heel worn at the time. It was made popular by Audrey Hepburn and retains a sexy, sixties vibe. It manages to give the feeling of height, without the debilitating consequences of the vertiginous shoes we have been wearing in recent years. I have a theory about that... just at a time when women are making strides forward in every field, we have been hobbled (literally and figuratively ) by our footwear. Its a stealthy way to ensure we don't get too far, rise too high. From now on, I'm only wearing shoes that I can run (away) in !! Rant over.
The trendy way to now wear kitten heels is to go for bright, even neon, colours. To seek texture and surprise in the colour choices and unusual straps or buckles. Those that fulfil that criteria are a delight . They do however, come at a price. I had hoped to bring more realistically priced options and there are a few but, with shoes, because they are not just a pretty face, they have to fit and perform the primary function of getting you around, it is worth swallowing and coughing up.
The plus to forking out for this style- wear them with everything, from skinny or boyfriend jeans, cigarette pant trousers, work suits and summer dresses. Maybe not with your waterproof dog walking trousers, now you're just being silly!
Unlike on my Dinner plate, I'm going to start with what I like best ...
White Patent Leather with blue striped canvas. Gorgeous!
And in Navy with blue and orange zig zags.
These are part of the Laura Bailey Collection and give a funky twist to a classic style
Another expensive pair but look at the detail ! Note the addition of the fine silver band just before the toes disappear into their encasement, the tile type print on the toe cap, finely stitched to create texture . The heel itself adds interest being placed further in towards the underneath of the heel and a geometric, as opposed to rounded shape. It looks so modern , yet so classic. That, the design and the quality of the leather, is what you pay for.
Also in bright pink with grey and black toe cap
I'm now giving you a dose of sensible. Sometimes its exactly what you need. You just need a shoe which doesn't want to be the main event, which allows your clothes to do the talking. If these don't make your heart sing, fear not, I'm holding back some corkers!
Taupe Minu Patent Leather Court LK Bennett £160
Despite the edict of Fashion Editors that taupe is to be avoided at all costs ,the fact that this shoe in this colour is a top seller and regularly sells out is testament to its perennial appeal. The shoe is made from the finest Italian leather and created with a foam padding in the soles for impact protection. It is elegant and versatile . What more could you want ,apart from it being free?!!
As one might expect, Russell and Bromley's fashion antennae means that they have a great range of classic kitten heel courts. The must have point toe is designed by Stuart Weizman and comes in four colours and fabrics. The style is Twiggy and is £185
Or, what about suede ? LK Bennett (again!) have a number of options...
This is a slightly heavier weight shoe with a serrated rubber sole and a flat bow with broguing on the toe. It might therefore be better purchased, at the reduced price, sprayed with protector and put away til the Autumn or for chillier Spring days. Actually, that will be now then. Scrub that, keep them out!
and in Navy
Still with suede but this style is seeing my heart rate increase and the desirability gauge creep steadily upwards...
This classic slingback is a thing of beauty. It comes in a range of mouth watering colours but I think that this blue is stunning. The heel height just squeaks in as a kitten heel but that extra centimetre means its going to work well with the longer, gathered skirts as well as all the other clothes options I've mentioned. So versatile, both for casual and formal or work wear.
The photograph doesn't do it justice. Its a vibrant, irresistible and juicy shade.
Blue-Denim, Pink-Powder Pink (more reddy if you ask me )
The fabulous Florita has also been reimagined in textile print
Orange, White and Blue Print £170
Sweetpea Print -White, Blue/Lilac and White £170
This colour combination has appeared in magazines and the press a number of times already. Although still in the sweetpea print, these colours create a very different impression and would add a beautiful and subtle splash to the wardrobe.
At a more reasonable level, financially, Dune produce a versatile, pointed toe, slingback in a range of pretty colours.
Cathryne Neutral Kitten Heel Slingback Dune £65
White ( I get that white is very much "IN " this Season but can't quite shake the negative connotations of the white shoe. I can almost hear my Mother and Granny sniffing. Just not a colour of shoe a "nice " girl would wear! I'm willing to try with the right outfit!
Clarks have consistently produced fashionable, attainable collections over the course of the last few years. It should no longer strike dread into the hearts of those of you who , like me, were routinely dragged there for school shoe fittings. Leaving with diamond punched, round toed, crepe soled, T bar monstrosities and often a clip round the ear for complaining!!
I expected them to be ahead of the curve, and they are with two very wearable designs, the first of which with more than a nod to the Sixties and the hey day of the Kitten Heel.
This is an off white, although still clean looking, so despite my hang ups for a white shoe, I would definitely consider these.
Clarks are often more visionary than their High Street competitors. Their collaboration with Orla Kiely has produced some wonderful fashion forward shoes and sandals. They understood the flatform and produced a Birkenstock type Slider (Netrix Rose) to name just two. Unfortunately for them ,not for us, sometimes the Public are not ready for the styles. This means that they are often reduced-as in the case of Netrix Rose, which I have just bought for £40 rather than £50. I predict that the same will be true of Aquifer so it might be worth waiting until they go into the sale. The style will still be relevant in the Autumn and indeed next year so no matter if you have to wait. For £60 though, they are a bit of a bargain anyway !
Netrix Rose Silver £40
Here are their No Nonsense, fabulous value, Slingbacks, the snakesskin versions of which are very funky and cool and fulfil the Editor's dictat to go for texture. They come in two width fittings (Good Old Clarks), really useful in a style such as this which has a tendency to nip at the edges.
Silver Metallic
I found these Jenny Packham Navy Slingbacks online at Debenhams. They are fabric covered, a type of raw silk effect, with a statement jewel on the front and , not only are they gorgeous, they are bargain of the blog. Originally £75 they are now only £22.50 ! If you don't have anything you can immediately think of in your wardrobe, I'm sure you'll soon get something that does. See the logic? That's why my wardrobes are crammed and my stuff is creeping into everyone else's. Its a good job the older two children have left ! I'm banking on them never returning either. Sorry Will !! Maybe spend that gap year somewhere less crowded. Like Calcutta!
No 1 Jenny Packham Navy "Leilani" Sling back Debenhams £22.50 (from £75)
I'm also loving these, far more expensive, T Bar point Courts from Russell and Bromley. They have more than a sniff of The Jazz Age and are incredibly chic. These are dancing shoes, or shoes to make you feel like dancing. They are particularly charming in the novel shimmering glitter fabric with a gold buckle and double bow trim. Once upon a time the glitter element would have meant they needed to be saved until the evening, for best. Not so now, these will see you through from the office to the evening and will add flair to any outfit, formal or otherwise. Can you tell I want them?!!
Bowie T Bar Point Court Russell and Bromley £185
Bowie in timeless Black Suede £185
I have featured the Boden Shoes below in a previous blog and own them in the pink suede colourway below. So far I haven't worn them- I just get them out periodically to caress them-but as soon as it stops being so blinking cold and damp, I most definitely will.
They are the same style as the Russell and Bromley pair and, for me , because I have a high instep and a broad foot, they are a better way than a slingback to wear a kitten heel. The ankle strap holds my foot in place perfectly. It was most recently featured in Marie Claire (published after my shoe blog I should add), Good Housekeeping and Woman and Home.
I have featured the Boden Shoes below in a previous blog and own them in the pink suede colourway below. So far I haven't worn them- I just get them out periodically to caress them-but as soon as it stops being so blinking cold and damp, I most definitely will.
They are the same style as the Russell and Bromley pair and, for me , because I have a high instep and a broad foot, they are a better way than a slingback to wear a kitten heel. The ankle strap holds my foot in place perfectly. It was most recently featured in Marie Claire (published after my shoe blog I should add), Good Housekeeping and Woman and Home.
FYI the Alice style is also available in a high heel version and, very recently, has launched as a flat.
The ankle strap has been incredibly popular and the Silver Aster Kitten Heel Pump £160 (£128)from Whistles and is a sell out in many sizes. It is still available, with a wider range of sizes at Next though. At the moment there is 20% off at Whistles online .
Its beauty is its simplicity with the twist of a middle back strap to add interest. The fact that it is silver increases its versatility so, even though not a cheap purchase by any means, it will be a very useful shoe to have, combining easily with a lot of what already exists in your wardrobe.
Aster Kitten Heel Point Pump Whistles £160 (£128)
Back detail
Russell and Bromley's version of the ankle strap places the emphasis on the ankle strap with a minimalist square buckle. The simplicity and style of the shape of the shoe itself is its selling point. It works with the lady like trend but will look fantastic with skinny jeans or luxe jogging bottoms.
and in Gold Shimmer
To me, the version by Russell and Bromley is the height of desire. However, Next has a very similar style for a fraction of the price and if you're not sure that this is the look for you, perhaps it would be better to start with a more modest outlay. The difference you will find is likely to be in comfort though, it has to be said. Clearly the quality of leather improves the more you pay- don't make your first outing round the shops!
Silver Kitten Heels Next £35
They are also made in black and white polka dot! Really fun and probably the best colour choice.
The final incarnations of the Kitten Heel are Mules and, once again, sadly for the bank balance, they come from Russell and Bromley but once again, they are amazing in their detail and craftsmanship.
The shape of the shoe and the statement jewelled buckle are reminiscent of those worn in the Court of Louis XVI yet are utterly timeless. The fabric is a luxurious cross stitch embroidery, reminiscent of the samplers of the past. The colours are rich and vibrant, yet subtle. These are going to compliment many things in your existing wardrobe, although this colour way, as opposed to the lighter ones below, might be more appropriate as we head towards Autumn.
The close up version illustrates the attention to detail-the beautiful sparkle on the buckle, the pale gold binding , the continuation of the fabric over the heel pad and onto the heel. Fabulous!
Talisman in Pink Snake Print £215
These Mules are the epitome of luxe and will be around forever.
The following open toed versions are by Stuart Weitzman and rework a classic look with his trademark eye for luxury- beautifully textured snakeskin and gold tassel detail add glamour to any outfit .The rainbow and the blush snakeskin are perhaps the most versatile and would be a brilliant addition to your packing for holiday evening wear.
Black Snakeskin
Textured Black Suede
Blush Snakeskin
Hopefully I have given you pause for thought on the subject of Kitten Heels and you have found some style which suits your pocket and your aspirations. How seldom the two synchronise in my experience ! If nothing else, enjoy the colour and the glamour and particularly with the ones which whisper a life of laughter, music and sunshine (in your heart you know which ones they are!), indulge that fancy for as long as you can. Until the bins need putting out anyway!
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